Cody's Microcosm

Seeburg introduced the infinity mirror lights in 1975. Anyone who has ever replaced the light bulbs will tell you it is a pain Below you can see one strip of the lights removed. I have already replaced all of the missing and burnt out bulbs. I used a #2182 bulb from mouser. Below is the technique I used to replace the lights. Simply take the leads and feed them through the metal clips on the side and then wrap the leads around the clips.  Finally, slide the bulb into the plastic holder. The lights working and back into the jukebox. As you can see there is some bulbs on the inside of the mirror box. 

Another amplifier brought to me by my friend Mike. I am not sure what Jukebox this amplifier came from. There was not a lot of information to be found on the TSA10 amplifiers from Seeburg. From the research I have done it looks like the TSA10 was offered around 1971.  The following year the SHP1 amplifiers were first offered. Above is what the amplifier looked like when I received it.  There was not any issues reported with this amplifier so I moved straight into replacing electrolytic capacitors.  Electrolytic Capacitors Needed:  Size Volatge Quantity 200mfd 6v 2 50mfd 16v 3 100mfd 12v 1 2700mfd 50v 1 1200mfd 35v 3 100mfd 35v 3 This is what the amplifier looks like with the driver board removed. All capacitors replaced and all boards reinstalled. The amplifier played very well with all the electrolytic capacitors replaced. It is now ready to be reinstalled in the Jukebox. 

I noticed in my Seeburg Entertainer  (STD2) that the tone seemed to change randomly and that even with minimal treble there still seemed to be too much high frequencies.  The problem was especially bad on worn records. What I did: I decided to take off the pre-amplifier board and inspect the tone switches. Below is what I found. As you can see the switches were extremely dirty. I cleaned the switches up with a rubber eraser and some deoxit.  (I forgot to take after photos) Capacitor Mod: Also, while I was working on the board I changed out the 2 1.5uF capacitors on the treble switch for .33uF capacitors. All I had in stock was 630volt. They are  over kill for the circuit, but they work. After the cleaning and modification the amplifier sounds much better and did not have any issues with the tone changing while playing. 

I have just finished repairing this Seeburg SHP3 for a friend. My friend collects and refurbished jukeboxes and he occasionally brings me the amplifiers. Initial Photos : The above photos show the amplifier as I received it. It was obvious someone had done some work before. The driver transistors as well as the output transistors were not originals. Also, Q5114 had been changed. It is the big silver transistor you see on the driver board. The initial power up  using a dim bulb tester showed that the right channel was not working and too much current was being drawn. Why I use a dim bulb Tester:  Notice the red enamel wire running along the top edge of the driver board. A trace should be there, but someone ran the amplifier with shorted transistors and burnt the 32+ volt trace off the board. Repairs: Replaced Q115 and Q116 (Driver Transistors Right Channel) -Shorted Replaced Q5117 and Q5118 (Output Transistors Right Channel)- Shorted Replaced Q5114 (Signal

Philco Model 20 I picked this Philco model 20 up in early March. It was found in a flea market in Greenbrier, Arkansas. As you can see there is some damage to the grill, but surprisingly all knobs were there.   An interesting thing you can see from above is the labeling on the  vacuum tubes. They say "Schmiers Radio and Refrigeration" and have a date code of 1931. The above photos show you what the Chassis looks like removed. There was no rust, but there was thick dust covering everything.  Progress on the Restore.  As you can see I have replaced the old capacitors and have replaced the resistors with reproductions. The cabinet is coming along, but it will be fall before the temperature is low enough to lacquer and tone and the cabinet.  One note from the above photos. The yellow caps you see are replacements for part 14. Which should have been a large metal cap similar to what you see attached to the back of the chassis.